Things felt a little darker this season at Simone Rocha, in no small part due to the show’s setting: London’s Lincoln’s Inn. In a room otherwise shrouded in darkness, models were bathed in pools of light as they moved around the spherical runway, designed to reflect a lake from an old Irish tale. The collection was also based on The Children of Lir, which tells the story of a young girl and her brothers who are transformed into swans by a wicked stepmother and banished to live on a lake for 900 years before returning home to die as humans.
Compared to previous collections, the clothes barely featured any frills or embellishments. Instead, embellishments were found in the makeup, with gems, pearls and crystals delicately placed around models’ eyes.
“I always love the idea that makeup is worn as a fashion accessory and is just an extension of your personality and identity,” said makeup artist Thomas de Kluyver. “So, this season for Simone I have taken that quite literally. Simone usually has so many embellishments and accessories in her show but this one was more toned down, so we discussed the idea of the makeup actually becoming an accessory itself.” In fact, most of the sequins and rhinestones de Kluyver used on the face and body are the same as ones featured on jewelry and garments within the collection. To keep focus on the sparkles, de Kluyver wanted to keep the skin quite clean and fresh; a touch of moisturizer was used along with foundation and concealer. “What I loved about this look is it is something that feels very futuristic but also vintage at the same time which I think is something Simone always captures so beautifully,” de Kluyver said.
Hair stylist Cyndia Harvey created quite concise looks; hair was poker straight, styled into plaited pigtails or hidden under balaclavas. Meanwhile nail artist Ama Quashie echoed this idea of the lake with wet look nails. “To personify the transparency of water we used a clear press on nails to add some length, elongating the nails and finger,” says Quashia. “On the nails themselves we created a water effect using rubberized gel to sculpt the droplets.” To add an extra sense of luminosity, Quashie layered models’ hands with Dr Barbara Sturm’s Glow Drops.