Here’s everything you need to know about the new shoe launches during Milan Fashion Week.
Nicolò Beretta Mentored by Giuseppe Zanotti
What happens when a veteran Italian shoe maestro joins forces with a rising luxury star? We’re about to find out with the debut of Nicolò Beretta Mentored by Giuseppe Zanotti. The new partnership was feted at a fashion week cocktail on Tuesday night, where Beretta said he had admired Zanotti for years. As a teenager, the young designer — who won FN’s Emerging Talent Award in 2015 — watched in awe when Lady Gaga wore custom Zanotti looks on her tour back. Fast forward to years later, and the two designers connected while on holiday in Ischia and quickly bonded over their love affair with shoes. The small capsule for spring 2023 features a Beretta signature — elegant crystal-embellished sandals. He also unveiled statement platforms in eye-catching green and pink hues.
Themoirè founders Francesca Monaco and Salar Bicheranloo, finalists of the Italian fashion chamber’s Sustainable Fashion Awards, are expanding their offering of eco-friendly handbags to debut their first footwear range. The capsule collection marks their initial foray into shoes, which they plan to make a permanent part of the collection. (The brand has partnered with Massimo Bonini on the sales effort.) The first footwear drop will include three styles, each coming in two variations, ranging from platform mules in polyurethane leather and recycled cork to options in straw. The made-in-Greece range, priced generally from $250 to $350, will mirror the founders’ approach to bags — they work with natural, recycled or alternative materials for all aspects of the product, spanning from lining and threads to labels and packaging. “It’s not easy to work with new materials because you have to do a lot of research. The companies aren’t always prepared to work with the fashion industry,” Bicheranloo said. Don’t call the shoes “sustainable” however. “If you sell something in another part of the world, you are already doing something that isn’t sustainable,” said Bicheranloo. Added Monaco, “It is very difficult to be 100% sustainable.” For the founders, being eco conscious is just one part of the equation. They are determined to be ethically responsible too — as evidenced by their focus on collaborations with under-resourced communities around the world.
After making big waves at London Fashion Week with her collection of buzzy sheer dresses, Nensi Dojaka wants to conquer another major category — footwear. The Albanian-born Dojaka graduated from London’s Central Saint Martins and debuted her namesake label, inspired by lingerie, in 2017. It’s become a celebrity and influencer favorite. (Emily Ratakowski closed the LFW show.) Now the designer is launching shoes to complement her ready-to-wear collection, and many of the details will be the same, including floral embellishments. The designer has teamed up with Massimo Bonini on the launch.
The Rome-based handbag label, known for its jeweled bags, is launching its first footwear capsule. Inspired by all things ’90s, designers and co-founders Maila Ferlisi and Rachele Mancini are debuting a graphic asymmetrical pump and a strappy sandal for their first effort. “Creating a Hibourama footwear line has been our dream for a long time and, now that the brand has reached a more mature stage, we are happy to unveil this exciting new project,” the designers said.
—With contributions by Sandra Salibian