2021 in food: Cicadas, TikTok pasta and a rough return to restaurants

Some beloved restaurants couldn’t survive the covid crisis — some folded right away, while others shuttered during the lockdowns of 2020 but still hoped to reopen when things were better. This year, many confronted the reality that they just couldn’t, like Sergio Ristorante Italiano in Silver Spring, Md. For 37 years, Sergio Toni and his son, Luigi, served their devoted customers zuppa ai frutti di mare and ravioli stuffed with asparagus and ricotta in the little basement restaurant. Couples got engaged there, and eventually so did their children. They celebrated birthdays and anniversaries and retirements. But the hotel above the restaurant closed, and the Tonis couldn’t stay open, even for takeout, without access to the restrooms.

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